Category Archive: Japan trip 2006

Before and after

Heh, so I guess my last few entries since Japan have been pretty similar and all downers. I blame sickness! Anyway, please allow me to reflect a little bit more on the idea of “before” and “after” as it applies to me now.

Right now is an interesting time for me. I mean, it’s wholly a transitional period. I was thinking about this the other day. The end of my educational career is a big marking point. I can think of my life as being pre and post this flag. As if to further strengthen the “before” and “after” sense of mind, the trip to Japan really…mmm…seemed to book-end things quite nicely. The trip itself wasn’t wholly life-altering, although, it certainly changed my views of self-worth and what I’m made of (besides blood and guts). This new phase hasn’t even truly begun yet, so I can’t talk about life “after”. However, looking at “before”, some things that used to be important now (rightly) feel like they are firmly in the past. It’s a weird feeling. It’s like a door behind me has been shut and now I’m standing in a big open field, with nothing identifiable on the horizons. I don’t know where to head! It’s frustrating.

“You look poor!”

After a tough day in Kamakura, I was happy to just remain in my hotel room and get some rest. I got undressed and just napped for an hour or two. A little while later though, I got an email from a friend asking whether I was free to hang out. If so, I was to give him a call since he was going out for a walk. I thought I might as well take advantage of the chance, so I called him up. Turned out, when I called him he was right in front of my hotel. So, I hurried and put on my least stinky shirt (which were in abundance) and went down to meet him.

It was really interesting walking around town with him. He had been reading a famous Japanese novel about the area we were at, so he decided that we should walk around and follow the same path that the guy in the novel did. So, we walked around going stop to stop. One of those stops was at Sensō-ji, which I’d already been to twice. In front of the temple, we were stopped by on old Japanese guy. At first, it looked like another one of those guys that wanted to practice their English. However, it soon became clear that there were other intentions afoot. You see, my friend is clearly Jewish (or at least Mid-Eastern looking). That played a role in the questions that this guy was asking. He asked us (him) to look up at the temple and asked what we thought. I don’t think we were too clear on exactly what he had us look at. He clarified it for us by asking what we (he) thought of the swastika on the big lantern at the front of the temple. Just for clarification, the swastika is a symbol used is Asia and in particular Buddhist temples long before the symbol picked up a different connotation. Anyway, my friend replied that he thought nothing of it. However, the old guy seemed to persist and say “Oh…so you know everything, yes?” “Yes, I do know everything,” is what he replied. We decided to walk away because the guy was obviously a nutcase. As we walking away, he exclaimed “You look poor!”

Oh the hilarity. See what I mean about fashion? Bah. My friend has been in Japan for so long that we really doesn’t give a shit about it anymore. Anywho, from the temple, we went through the Nakamise and out to the main road. We hiked to the Sumida river, which he explained was the lifeblood of old Edo. It’s a beautiful place to be. He led me around town. Soon enough, we were in Akihabara. Now, in my mind I was so used to Akihabara being only accessible by train. To be honest, I was shocked to see Yodobashi-Akiba. We ended up eating at a curry place around the place. It was pretty awesome–at least, in comparison to the crappy curry I ate at Kamakura that same day.

From there, we had to decide what to do next. Originally, we had a movie in mind. He kind of wanted to see the movie Cars, but he came up with another idea. I think he wanted to make sure I did mostly quintessentially Japanese stuff. So, he suggested heading to an Ōedo Onsen Monogatari. For the unfamiliar, onsens are Japanese public baths. I dunno. People back here were suggesting I go as well. I wouldn’t get any other chance, really. However, a public bath…involves getting naked…in public. I was so conflicted. Part of me wanted to, but I had so many physical issues that wasn’t sure I was ready to deal with, for example, pudginess, scars, etc. It was a tough tough call, but in the end, we ended up going. The place was in Odaiba, so we had to take a train, then a monorail to get there. Well, the place is like an amusement park. Inside, they tried to maintain the feel of old Edo Tokyo. It’s very cool looking. They give you yukatas to wear inside the resort. When you walk in, you kind of feel like you just went into a time warp of sorts. I mean, everyone is dressed in their yukatas and the scenery is very old. When you get to the change rooms, your inhibitions kind of have to drop or else you’re going to go batty. I mean, the moment you walk in it’s like, BAM! Everyone’s fucking naked (Err…I mean, “fucking” in the purely expletive sense–it’s not a big orgy). So, despite some pudginess, battle scars and all, I joined in. They give you two towels: a big one and a small one. You can use the small one to kind of cover up, but really, once you’re there you almost don’t care. Besides, it’s not like I can wrap that shit around my waist comfortably. There were eight or nine different spring you could try out. Each had its own feature. Like, there were hot ones, colder ones, mineralized ones, outdoor ones, etc. Going outside, it was such an odd thing to be sitting naked in the cool breeze–it felt good though. Hahah. I think, the best part of the experience was just hanging out (ha!) with my friend. I was glad that he recommended going to the onsen. It’s a life experience that I can be proud of.

Interestingly, after feeling refreshed, we had to change back into our smelly clothes in order to go home. Boo!

Anyway, that was Tuesday. Thinking about it makes me feel exhausted. Even so, it was all fully worth it.

Belly of the Big Buddha

Big day yesterday. My friend insisted I go to Kamakura to take in the culture, so yesterday I took a train out of the city and headed for that place. The town itself is pretty small–then again, most places compared to Tokyo are small. The place is rich in temples and shrines. They dot the map all over the place. I got off the train in North Kamakura and proceeded to follow the crowds. It was easy enough to find the close temples because of the processions of people going from one stop to the next. The temples were absolutely beautiful. I’ll be honest though, if you’ve seen one, it’s almost too easy to say that you’ve seen ‘em all. Of course, it’s not all that true, I mean, each one has its own personality, right?

Upon leaving the second temple I visited, I was passing under some trees from which there were some loud animal noises. I looked up to see what the commotion was, but didn’t find anything. Moments later though, a nut or some sort of hard fruit was dropped on my head. I think some patrons at a nearby restaurant had a nearby giggle.

Anyway, after following the crowds for the second temple, I decided to try finding stuff on my own. I started hiking down this winding road, passing crowds of male junior high students. I crossed over and found myself on a large steep hill. I think that may have been the hill where of which there’s a legend about someone making it so steep that even turtle will fall over. It’s a bloody wonder that I didn’t fall over. After that long trek, I ended up in some residential area. I had no clue where I was going so I continued to follow the paths. There was no one following behind me so I started worrying that I was going nowhere. Ah, but I was wrong. I eventually ended up at Kaizō-ji. It was a small-ish temple with beautiful gardens. When I arrived, there was an old man taking photos of the blossoms. The peace was a total contrast to the noise of the crowds in the other places. I ended up sitting down for a little while, taking in the sights. Actually, I sat because I was bloody exhausted, but whatever. This place was great, but it was no giant Buddha. So, I set off again in the hopes that I’d find some sign that I was on the right track.

I ended up beside the railroad tracks at some point, so I followed them down for a very long period. Out of sheer luck, I ended up finding the Kamakura shopping area. All the walking around made me hungry, so I stopped by a Ma & Pa type place for a cheap place of curry rice. Well…it was crap, but it was cheap. I somehow didn’t feel all too welcome in that place. I hate that feeling. I ended up still being hungry. After more walking, I somehow ended up at Kamakura station. That was far! Before moving on though, I spotted a Baskin Robbins and stopped by for two scoops. They gave me a third one for free. Score!

Well, I searched the station and came across a tourist info booth which had English maps of the area. Chee, that would have been useful from the beginning, you know? I learned from the map that there was a train that headed for the road leading to the temple with the big Buddha. I was too tired to walk another long distance, so I bought a ticket. The train wasn’t worth the price I paid. It only cosisted of two cars and was packed.

Anyway, yeah, I made it to the Buddha. For ¥20, I was allowed to go inside that thing. When I did, all I could think of was “I paid 20 for this?” Not exciting at all, but at least I can say that I was in the belly of a big Buddha. The big drawback of exploring on my own is that I can’t take pictures of myself readily. I think I tried to position myself somehow to get a shot of me and the Buddha but I failed. An older Japanese man saw my problem and asked if I wanted a picture. How nice! The picture he took was kind of crappy, but I didn’t want to bother him so I said “ii desu! arigatou gozaimasu!” Well, what else can you do?

Anyway, that was Kamakura. At this point, this is my last entry that will come from Tokyo. My flight back is tonight. However, I’ve still got some stories to tell, so that’s coming soon. I’ll be back in Toronto by the evening of the 5th.

Hope to see some of you soon!

Sake and karaoke

It’s morning here. You know, if you’d have told me that last night I’d be doing karaoke somewhere across town, drinking sake with a friend and two people from England who I’d just met, I’d think you were right mad. However, that’s the result of me asking whether Jay wanted to hang out. Well, I’m thankful that I didn’t end up just lying in bed watching shitty Japanese TV (and it really is crap). Instead, I was singing famous Japanese rock songs which I’d only heard for the second time.

Go figure.

Anyway, today is my last day here. I know! Already! Well, I wass given the suggestion to head to Kamakura, which is full of temples and a big huge statue of Buddha. I’m really tired and not enirely looking forward to the walk, but this seems to be a great place to visit. I guess it sure beats doing nothing more than visiting Sensoji a third time (yeah that was originally part of today’s plan). I’m not sure how Kamakura will turn out, but whatever. In the end I can say I’ve been there.

Primped and stylish

I think I’ve figured out a few reasons why I felt so out of place in Shibuya among the Japanese youth. If you recall, I’m technically right in that age bracket of the people you’d see there, but at the same time, I just didn’t feel like part of the group. It’s just that the Japanese fashion sense is totally different from what’s I consider to be the norm. Every guy is primped and stylish. Some might say gay-looking, but it’s the norm here. As well, people here are so fracking skinny. Holy crap, it’s so easy to fall into body dysmorphic disorder if you’re not careful. I guess, by comparison, my clothes are sloppier and I’m just a bigger guy, so that makes me…a big fat slob here. Yay!

Well, this morning I made the trek to Harajuku station. Actually, I took the subway, so I ended up at Meiji Jingu-mae station, but they’re next to each other so whatever. I took my backpack, so again, my shirt was soaked with sweat. I wouldn’t have taken it, but honestly, I was kind of hoping for a swarm of Japanese teens with too much time on their hands, but it wasn’t the case. Nope, no freak show apart from one or two exceptions. I went along Takeshita-doori, which is the fashion crockpot of the area. Yup, there were lots of clothing stores, some offering strange things like some leather biker get up with a red mesh shirt…for guys. Yeah, whatever. For the sake of curiosity, I went in one store that seemed to sell men’s stuff. All of the shirts looked trendy, but there were all smaller than anything I could wear. I swear, I kind of just want to go back home, head to the closest mall and find some decent clothes just to prove the point that yes, I can find shit in my size. Screw you, Tokyo! Needless to say, I got bored of the street rather quickly. Although, I did stop by the ¥100 store Harajuku Daiso. To be honest, I really shouldn’t have gotten anything. No matter where you go, a dollar store is a dollar store is a dollar store.

After leaving, I made it a point to stop by Omotesando which is often referred to as “Tokyo’s Champs-Elysees.” By whom? Hell if I know. The shops that lined the street seemed upscale. For example, I spotted Ralph Lauren and Louis Vutton shops. I ducked inside the Omotesando Hills shopping complex to get out of the sun. As I walked around, I marvelled at all the shops I couldn’t possibly afford to shop in. I got a kick out of that. However, there’s only so much of that you can do before going batty, so I left quickly. I ate lunch at a cafe somewhere along the road. They had a great Chicken lunch combo which was well put together. To think, I was this close >>> <<< to eating at Wendy’s.

I dropped by the Meiji Shrine just because when I first went there I totally enjoyed the shade of the forest and the overall serenity of the place. The gates are all just so grand and huge. It’s all just beautiful. It’s a very popular tourist spot. Which reminds me, combined with Takeshita-doori, today I’ve seen more Americans (read: white people) than I’ve ever seen during my whole stay in Tokyo. Please don’t mind me pointing that out; I was just amused by it.

The other day, Amy was telling my about this aquarium that she and Alex went to after they settled at their hotel. I saw a symbol for the aquarium on Google maps, so I thought “how hard could it be to find the place?” As such, I made it a point to go there from Harajuku Station. I got off at Shinagawa and looked for the closest street map. After scanning all over, I didn’t find a single mention of an aquarium. So, my next instinct was to head to the area around the hotel where Amy and Alex stayed. When I got there, there was still no sign. So, I just walked down the road, hoping for something to pont out that I was on the right track. About half an hour later, I gave up. I had no idea where I had just walked to. I was hot, sweaty, and tired, so I walked into a coffee shop and ordered something cold. I guess I was too tired because I ended up buying a blood orange drink for ¥420. That was dumb. It was good but certainly not $4 good, know what I mean? Ugh, anyway, when I left, I kept walking and found myself at Gotanda station. That’s 2 stations worth of distance from Shinagawa. That was bloody far.

Anyway, not to feed into any of the body dysmorphic shit I was talking about, but after all this walking I better damn well have lost a bit of weight.

Thanks. I’ve had my moment.

Bright lights, big city

It’s Monday morning here in Tokyo, and I’m feeling kind of rotten. My energy levels are riding a bit of a low wave right now. The night before, I asked Jay what kind of places I should visit on my last days. I told him that I was going to go freak watching in Harajuku, however, he informed me that that was really only done on Sunday mornings. Damn it, if I had known, I would’ve trekked there instead of the zoo. It’s a pity, really. Anyway, regardless, I’m still going to head over there and check out the shops.

He also suggested that I head out to Shibuya at night once more. We had gone during the tour, but it was really a rushed stop on the way to dinner. So I went there to absorb some of the insanity. Shibuya crossing is the world’s busiest pedestrian crossing. I think I happened to go there at one of the less busier times, but it was still so very full of life. Orchastreted chaos is a good way to think about it, you know? It seems that a lot of the younger generation gathers here. I’m not old or anything, but perhaps I felt a bit out of place. I don’t know why. Maybe it’s just a personality mismatch, know what I mean? I know a lot of people who’d love this place. I think I’m more about places like the Nakamise and Senso-ji Temple in Asakusa, which are also busy, but seemingly more calmed down and cultural. Those who know me understand, I think.

A day at the park

Today was the first day that I’ve been exploring all on my own. End result? It was kind of a failure. It wasn’t because I couldn’t get around. It wasn’t because there was nothing interesting to view. No, it was all because of a few factors. Like I mentioned before, I’ve been horribly wiped out from the abnormally large amount of walking that we did in the first few days. This is certainly not the relaxing sort of vacation. Taking that into consideration, I wanted to head to someplace close to the hotel. Around here, there’s the Senso-ji temple, and Ueno Park which is a large park in the middle of the city. Since I’d already gone to Senso-ji twice, I figured it would be a good time to visit the park. It’s only one stop away on the subway. Once I got there, I walked around without any big aims, but I eventually ran into the Ueno Park Zoo, which is Japan’s most well-known zoo. It’s been a while since I’ve seen animals in a zoo, so I paid admission and went in. Well, it’s everything you’d expect a zoo to be.

On the grounds, there’s even a monorail. I thought that thing was going to circle the park, so I paid the ¥150 admission and got on. To my chagrin, the only people that got on were adults with their kids. The parents were all “tanoshii yo ne?!!!” to their kids, which basically means “this is totally fun, isn’t it?” The kids were into it. Soon the thing started up and as it moved I pulled out the video cam. Soon after I started filming, the things stopped. I looked around and asked myself, “this can’t be it, can it?” However, all the passengers filed out. I felt like such a tool. The thing just crossed the zoo to the west portion, which was entirely walkable. What a waste!

I tried to make the trip as relaxing as possible. At one point I just sat on a park bench and I took off my shoes, trying to give my feet some well needed rest. That was fine by me. By the time I left the zoo, it was about 1 p.m. The moment I left, that’s when the rain came. Now, for this trip, I feel we had been wholly blessed. I mean, Yosenex told me that for the entire month of May the rains were relentless. The fact that rain didn’t come during the tour was incredible. So, I didn’t really mind that the rain was happening at that moment outside of the zoo.

I ducked under a tree for a little while, but then I figured that I should buy a temp umbrella or else I’d be stuck there for a long time. Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted a booth that had just pulled out its supply of umbrellas. Sure, they cost ¥500, but at least I could move. Well, the winds blew hard and despite me having cover, I still got moist. I was just tired and miserable. So, I headed back for the hotel early. The hotel was explaining in Japanese that they still weren’t done cleaning the room. They asked “something something…modoritai?” which I gathered to mean, “do you want to go back to your room?” I mustered a tired “hai.” I dunno, I think I must have looked like I was going to either drop dead or start bawling. The clerk called around and returned saying “go fun“, meaning “five minutes.” Fine enough by me. I’ve been napping ever since I returned to my room. I think the smell of animal poop is haunting my mind.

That brings me to another point as to why today was a failure. When you go alone, there’s no one to act as an incentive to continue pushing forward. Oh hell no. There’s no one there to push and no one that relies on you, so if you’re tired, you are free to damn well return if you want. I took that option. Someone suggested that despite being here for a week now, I may have just hit jet lag now. It’s very possible.

The last point I can think of is an absolute saturation of the need to absorb a culture. As I look at a map of the big Tokyo subway system, I think I’ve been to and seen the sights of most of the major ones. Ikebukuro? Been there; won UFO dolls at an arcade. Shibuya? Done that; took a pic with Hachiko; ate teppenyaki there. Shinjuku? I ate at the red light district. Akihabara? Walked around endlessly; ate at a maid cafe; found many goods. Ueno? Done the park. Ginza? Walked around, went up Mitsukoshi and saw the ridiculous prices for all the goods. Asakusa? Been to Senso-ji twice; wandered around the Nakamise shopping streets; had a Buddhist monk wonder if I’m native American.

Let’s just say, I’m tired. I don’t know what else to have a look at. I think tomorrow though, I’m going to build up enough energy to walk around Harajuku. Yeah, it’s that fashion place that Gwen is all ga-ga over. It’s advertised as a Teenagers’ paradise. So, I’m going to head there and bring the video camera along. Should be interesting. Hopefully I’ll get footage of some weirdo gothic lolita types. If I need to kill time, I may make a stop over at Yodobashi Camera in Akihabara first. I mean, I don’t think I’ll end up buying anything, but it’s fun to look at 8 to 9 floors of electronic goods. That place is huge! If I do though, it’ll tack on about ¥120 to the travel costs. Did I mention that water money flows like water here? It seriouesly does. It’s kind of ridiculous.

That’s all for now I guess. Talk to y’all soon. Looking forward to going home. :)

Electric Town

I’m sitting in bed after a long day in Akihabara. I’m watching one of those Japanese variety shows. There seems to be this Japanese woman travelling around Sri Lanka visiting with the locals. I don’t know why I find this so amusing, but I do. Japanese society seems to be so insular, that a travel show of the type that I’m watching seems unique. I was kind of expecting fancier or more eccentric television shows, but everything seems so average.

I’ve already showered. Tokyo weather around this time of year seems to average between 25 and 30°C. That doesn’t seem too bad, however, it’s horribly humid here. You feel it on your skin and that icky feeling just doesn’t go away until you shower. The hotels here seem to offer pajamas or night gowns to its guests. They give fresh sets daily. The Mielparque offered something like a yukata. I don’t think it fit very well when I used it. I don’t know if you’re supposed to wear it to bed. I did, but by morning it was all wide open. After that, I chose not to use it. This Toyoko inn offer night gown like things. These are pretty open. I suppose it doesn’t matter since I don’t have a roommate while I’m staying here. Whatever.

Anyway, today was a pretty good day. During the tour, one of the stops was Akihabara, which is quite famous for all the electronic goods being sold there. Damn, that place is busy. I mean, there are hordes of people all over the place. Each store has people out on the street screaming at you to come into their store. It’s a gauntlet of people handing out free tissue packets and fans. It’s easy to hit sensory overload there, I figure.

We didn’t really spend much time there, so Amy, Alex and I decided to return to check things out. Luckily this time, we had a guide. Yosenex has been teaching English in Japan for a while and he seemed to know the neighbourhood really well. He tooks us from store to store, looking for goods that might interest us. What kind of goods? Well…you know:

No, I didn’t buy these. Are you kidding? They’d probably be around ¥15000. Instead, I ought some smaller figurines. As well, Yosenex pointed out some artbooks. When Amy and I saw them, we were in shock. I mean, holy crap, it was like finding the holy grail…except perhaps not that rare. I’m now the owner of the second SM artbook. I also have the second anime artbook now. I am one happy guy with these purchases. I’ve spent more today than any of the past days that I’ve been here. That’s great, however, I think it’s time for me to cap the big purchases.

After the purchases, Yosenex took us all to an arcade so he could show us his mad DDR skills. This guy is amazing. The three of us were cheering him on. I don’t think the Japanese gus around us were as into his performance as we were, but screw them, I thought it was amazing.

So yeah, my feet still kill. Because of the fact that we scoured Akihabara, my feet haven’t had much time to recover. I don’t think they will until the plane ride home. It’s coming soon. I’ve lost track of days, really. Now that I think about it though, I’ve got 3 more days left to see all that I can manage. I have to persevere and cram it all in. This trip is already memorable, however, I know that I can make it even moreso.

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