Category Archive: Japan trip 2008

Ninja secrets

On that second last day in Japan, I headed back to the apartment with all of my purchases and chilled out for a bit before being convinced to head out for a long walk to Akasaka, near Roppongi. He wanted to go to a ninja restaurant in the area. If you recall, I made an attempt to wander around the city from Roppongi back to the apartment back before the rail tour. That walk took 4 hours. Of course, I wasn’t taking a direct route, but still. Knowing that, I was skeptical about the walk. He promised a 2-2.5 hour walk. I balked at first but he retorted: “what are you going to do on your second to last night here, just sit around the apartment?” True. As such, I just decided to go along. God, that was a rough walk. I mean, after walking around the city all morning, I really just wanted some rest. Instead, I was hiking cross-city again. Sure, he took me around to see some interesting sights: Kanda Myōjin, the Imperial Palace, Hikawa Jinja in Akasaka. Of course, it was all in the dark, but still. We eventually made it to where we needed to go after 2.5 hours. I was hot and sweaty and rather unamused.

As it turned out, the ninja restaurant was called…Ninja Akasaka. Figures, doesn’t it? We waited around for a third person to join us. When we arrived, we headed in. Oh man, what a trip that place was. The reception area looked all boxed off and dark. There was a single greeter there taking names. After taking our names the greeter went from smiley to secretive and spooky all at once. She announced that a ninja was going to come in and guide us to our table so we had to pay attention. All of a sudden one of the walls opened up and in came the seater, dressed up ninja garb guiding us to follow her. She took us through some tight passages with low ceilings. The whole time she was bending her knees and looking around because, after all, we were in a ninja hideout and someone might attack at any time. We had to go up some uneven stairs and such. At one point the pathway looked destroyed–the path was broken and there was flowing water below. The guide put on a good show in decent English. “Oh no! The bridge is destroyed! What should we do?” I think we were all just in a state of WTF is going on @__@ to respond. She said, “wait…NINJA MAGIC!” She then yelled out and did a chant “rin pyou tou sha kai jin retsu zai zen….” All of a sudden, a drawbridge came down allowing us to cross. God, that was awesome. When we crossed, we finally got to the dining area. There were different rooms with tatami mats full of people enjoying themselves. When we got to our own room, we took of our shoes and sat down at the low tables.

The waitress, naturally in ninja garb, came by and greeted us. She started prefacing things saying that she wasn’t too great with English but that she will try her best. My friend then spoke up that it’s OK to speak Japanese if she has to because he’ll translate. The waitress was shocked and let out a very happy “arigatou gozaimasu!!!.” So funny!

After we ordered drinks, ehe pulled out what looked like a tube, and with great dramatic flair, she yanked on it and revealed that it was actually a scroll with the menu on it. She said that a few of the courses involved “ninja surprises.” Naturally that was a draw. Two of us ordered the “Surprise Course.” My friend ordered a steak course. Well the first course that came for us was a bunch of ninja star crackers with some foie gras. No kidding. The juxtaposition between an oddball theme the sophistication of foie gras was amusing. When the waitress came in with the second course, she announced: “first appetizer…now…dessert! Ninja surprise!” She set down two chocolate truffles in front of the two of us that ordered the surprise course. All I could think was, “umm..OK…” After a pause, she told us though that the chocolates were actually a potato type appetizer and a meat ball of sorts. Well that was neat. Heh. At some point we got this escargot type course. She came with a plate with shells on it. She did a chant and…well…probably better if you see this:

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Awesome! For another course, she brought out these veggies and started cutting them up in a small wooden bucket. She poured in a “secret soup” which was a mixture of soy milk, shellfish soup, and vegetable soup. She then took this rock and told me to say “nin nin.” I did, and then she stuffed the stone into the bucket. The contents started sizzling. Turns out the rock was 400 degrees. That heated up the whole thing. Quite awesome. She added pork, and that completed the soup. See the following vid:

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The soup itself was pretty nice. It had a very Thai feel to it. At some point someone (also in ninja garb, of course) came in to perform a funny magic show for us. He was also able to speak in broken but understandable English which makes me think they must get a lot of foreigners around the restaurant. By the end of the meal, the waitress brought in what looked like a bonsai tree. Turns out the bonsai was made of a fried wonton-like wrapper. The soil was made of chocolate cake. The green moss was dusted matcha powder. Underneath is all was ice cream and fruit. That was damn awesome.

As our guide was taking us to the front, I was expecting another crazy trip so I had my camera ready to capture it all. Unfortunately, the way out was a little for straightforward. She opened a door and there we were back at the reception area. God, that was amazing. As we headed out, someone called out to us. It was the guide. She jumped out, pulled out a scroll with a big smile: “Please come again.” Hahah. So cute! Well yes, if I find myself back in Tokyo that will be a place I’ll want to visit again. I was totally happy to have eaten in such a place. I had so much fun! It was a memorable way to slowly close out my vacation there. Of course, I still had one day to do stuff, but wow, how do you top something like that?

Geek secrets

On my second last day in Japan I headed back to Akihabara to check out what I considered to be a super-geek store. Now, the area is already known for having a lot of the geek shops–video games, manga (adult and otherwise), anime, hobby figures, etc. This one particular store though seems to consolidate it all into one shop. Back in 2006, we’d gone to a branch of the store out in the far west of the city. Being that they opened a store closer to where I was located, I thought I’d check it out.

I wandered around looking for the building being unsure what to expect, but when I saw a tall black tower I knew that I’d found it. I was a little unsure about walking in. Why? Hmm…maybe I was suddenly hit by a little bit of self-consciousness. Did I want to be seen walking into such the place? Then it occurred to me that no one would ever see me again. Point! So, I started wandering around. Eight floors of geek-wares. Second floor had costumes and anime cels. The third floor had all sorts of manga and artbooks. I made a feeble attempt to look for a particular title, but I got lost amid all the kanji. I found two artbooks that I wanted though so I purchased them. In the other location, they put the contents in these heavy black bags which were designed to hide the contents. Now, that’s dead useful if you purchased something pervy, or mildly embarrassing. Thing is, in carrying a black bag, you’re sort of giving away the fact that you’re carrying something that you don’t want broadcast. This time, they put my purchase in a paper bag and taped it shut with three pieces of tape. Still opaque, but branded with the company’s name. I think such a bag still induces curiosity if you recognize the company, right?

So, again, why is an opaque bag important? Well, the fourth floor of the building was purely hentai. There were so many illustrated boobies and flying fluids. It was fascinating. This floor was actually the most popular floor in the building from what I remembered. There were a lot of guys perusing thing, pawing at the good, collecting piles and piles of…whatever. It all caught me off guard. As I walked up to the fifth floor, I saw a sign describing floor contents. I couldn’t make out all of the details, but I noticed that the fourth floor (the floor I was just at) had kanji for “men” on it. The fifth floor had kanji for “women” on it. Well, I wasn’t in the mood to face a full floor of men loving men, so I headed for floor 6. I don’t recall exactly what was on the floor. I think it was a full floor of doujinshi. Floors 7 and 8 had video games and hobby figures. Once again though, they didn’t have much in the way of figures from [that one show] that I would have been interested in. Feh.

Well, walking around with a bag from that store was interesting. I could have sworn that people were looking at the bag wondering what was in it. Or furthermore they were wondering what the foreigner was doing carrying something from the store. Maybe it was all imagined. Actually, I don’t think it was. I did some more general shopping before heading to Sensōji and the Nakamise shopping street. The street is full of souvenir type stuff all leading up to the big Buddhist temple. I’d been there in 2006, so I knew that it was a great place to get stuff. I went into one store to shop for a yukata for myself. I set my bags down as I was trying things on. One of the store clerks had to set them aside to access a storage drawer. As she picked up my bags, the paper bag sort of popped open a little bit possibly exposing the contents. The clerk started apologizing–genuinely sounding like she was sorry that I was possibly ‘exposed’. Oh, she knew. Of course, its not like I was carrying illustrated porn, so I didn’t care too much. In any case, I thought that sort of reaction was interesting.

That store, by the way, forgot to give me a free belt for my yukata. Boo!

Yomiuri Giants vs. Saitama Seibu Lions

The morning after the tour I attempted to sleep in but the sunlight pierced through the window pretty violently. I only made it to about 10 a.m. or so before I felt like I couldn’t lie down any longer. I got ready as quietly as possible and headed out in silence.

That morning I decided to head to Akihabara. I had small intentions of searching out a cheap flash drive. To be honest though I really didn’t give it much of an effort. I gave up my half-hearted search pretty quickly and instead switched to more geekier stuff. I started hunting out some “hobby figures” for [that particular show]. I mean, a couple of us were shown a good number of stores in the area that carried the figures. Back then, the figures for that show were still sort of numerous. As I went around this time though, the pickings were really slim! Seriously. I spotted maybe only a few swimsuit figures, or pieces that I already had. It was kind of an eye opener. I mean, when I stop to think about it, the show started almost 16 years ago: it’s an old franchise that doesn’t generate much interest anymore. How sad! Eventually, I just gave up on searching for that one show and started poking around in other shops for stuff. In the end of it all I only ended up with some gifts before walking back to the apartment.

When I got back, my friend had already left to take care of a few things. I took an hour or two to just relax and nap. When I got up I started my trek over to the Tokyo Dome to meet my friend. After our failure to get tickets to see the Hanshin Tigers, we decided to get tickets to see a Yomiuri Giants game. As I walked to the station it started raining really hard, and water filled my shoes rather quickly. It was going to be a rough night. When we got to the dome area I stopped to take pictures here and there. The other guy just kept on walking though. I kept an eye on him from a distance so as not to lose him in the crowd. As he rounded a corner, I fully expected him to wait. The path was slippery from all the water and I had no intentions of running. As I rounded the corner myself I scanned the crowd for him but didn’t see him at all. I had no luck spotting him so I gave him a call. He told me to meet him at gate 11. I looked around but didn’t spot the gate. I weaved through the crowd and eventually found a sign pointing me to the gate which was clear on the other side of the dome and on a lower level. Wandering around in wet socks wasn’t putting me in the greatest of moods. I eventually caught up with him and he had the nerve to ask “why are you so slow?” I got bloody pissed off at the perceived indecency with that remark. I started yelling, but then disconnected because that wasn’t the time or place to engage him. Besides, we were going to see a Japanese baseball game–that’s all that mattered.

Previously before sitting down my friend had a bit of a worry that we might have ended up with seats in the visitor’s region of the stands. It wouldn’t have mattered to me, really. He was right–we were in the visitor’s area. Actually, we were in this border line area, really. To the left of us were the home team fans. To the right were the people cheering for the visiting Saitama Seibu Lions. Through the first inning I felt schizophrenic. I wanted to cheer for the home team, but I also wanted to cheer with the visitors. Eventually, for my sanity I had to choose one. My friend left his seat to stand over with the Giants fans. For me, I decided to stick to my seat and politely clap for whoever because I was lazy. Thing is, the visitors had this whole flag, trumpet, and drum thing going on. Their cheers were vibrant and lively and noisier from my vantage point. The Giants fans seemed a bit more boring be comparison. By the second inning, the visitors got a 3-run home run and started going wild. It was at that point that I decided to adopt the Lions as my team of choice. In the third inning they got another 3-run home run. Check out the video for them cheering afterwards. It doesn’t do the crowd justice. The drumming and trumpets were infectious and I don’t think it’s really conveyed.

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Well, by the end the visiting Lions won the game by a pretty wide margin. That put me in a good mood for the rest of the night. Good thing I was in a good mood too because that was the night that I had to put up with heavy train delays due to the multiple suicides. At one point we decided to get off the local train and try for the express. Man, that train was packed. I didn’t really think I could fit onto the train, but I just stepped on and mildly pushed with my whole body. I thought it was a miracle that I made it. Unfortunately for me, the train waited for a few more minutes. The train got more and more packed as people crammed on. There was only one technique: push! Somehow it all worked out. I’ve never experienced that on a Tokyo train before. I can now say that I’ve been in a ridiculously packed train in Tokyo. It’s hard to not be self-conscious in that situation, no? At one point, the young mother had to pick up something for her kid. She bent over basically shoving her ass up against me. My mind clicked: “ok…that’s her ass.” It took me a few more moments before something else clicked: “that’s her ass…rubbing into my crotch.” OK. So, I adjusted myself so as not to prolong anything lest I get an erection on a packed train. Nope…wouldn’t be good. When we finally got off the trains, my friend commented about how packed trains like that are reasons why groping is so common. No shit.

We ended the night by eating chicken wings in Shinjuku. The street along there were lines with ladies offering services. One woman seemed desperate to really want to get my attention. She was offering massage services–and I’m sure they would have included a “happy ending” for a little extra. Pass.

All in all a good night.

Day 7: Hiroshima and Kobe

I didn’t sleep all that well on the futon because I was just uncomfortable under all those layers. I think it was also pretty warm than night. We turned the air conditioner unit on, but I think it had a timer so it shut off in the middle of the night. Man, I missed my own bed that night. We woke up early and headed up to the breakfast buffet. The buffet wasn’t all that bad, but it definitely catered more to the Japanese palate. I was able to find enough items to eat, for sure. Maybe I can say that I felt like something was missing. Maybe I was just missing having something like a greasy North American type meal, full of protein and fat. Hard to put my finger on what it was.

Anyway, that day it was only the two of us travelling together. We lugged our heavy bags back up the road to the Beppu train station. As I was waiting for the train I noticed that the announcement for Beppu station was really tonal. The second syllable was high and emphasized like the lady was singing. So, it was like: “be-PPU! be-PPU!” I don’t know why I found that amusing.

Since we were late making reservations the train from Beppu to Kokura was already fully booked. We were hoping the non-reserved cars wouldn’t be packed, but we had no such luck. So for an hour or so we had to stand on the rocking car. We were able to get seats from Kokura to Hiroshima though which was fortunate.

I’ll be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect at all heading into the city. I mean, I knew there was a living, breathing city there. People would be going about their business and it’d be no different than any other place. Except, would there be a sense of unease? Would there just be this weird aura surrounding the people? Well, for the most part, I didn’t feel any of that.

The streetcar stop at Hiroshima station was packed. There were tons of school kids and a good sized bunch of American tourists. There’s a stop specifically for the Atomic Bomb Dome. On the way there I fell into contemplative silence. My father was still a really young child in the Philippines when all of this was happening so I was wondering if any of what happened filtered back to him when he was a child. So much to think about. When I stepped off the streetcar and walked over to the park, all I could feel was a big “whoa…” There it was. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial. There are no words. There really aren’t. People were taking pictures all over the place, but they too were silent.

My friend had already seen the museum, so I went off on my own to soak it all in. I passed by the Memorial Cenotaph and observed a couple of people offering prayers in front of it for the deceased.

The museum was very interesting and informative. It was also very sombre. It’s not meant to be a happy place, right? The first part was interesting in that it showed some of Hiroshima’s history as a military base of sorts. I mean, there are reasons why Hiroshima was chosen as a site for the bomb. Further into the museum there were exhibits showing various artifacts–clothing from those that died, warped tiles, hair that fell off from those who fell sick afterwards…it all made my mind race with so many thoughts–so many conflicting thoughts. The content was heavy. It all made me feel heavy.

Well, after all of that, I met up with my friend at the train station. We were soon off for Kobe. I told him how the content of what I’d seen was all so very heavy. He just told me that I could lighten my mood once more with some steak. Indeed! We got off at Shin-Kobe station, dropped off our bags and started searching for a specific restaurant. It was recommended to us by the other two that travelled with us earlier. After a short walk, we made it to the subway station that it was near. From there we started our hunt. Man, it seems like too many of my restaurant stories involve at least an hour of walking. Ugh! We had a few clues. It was supposed to be near the station, near a shrine and near a Starbucks. Even with all that info we didn’t spot it for so long. I managed to spot the Starbucks after what seemed like forever, and from there, we found the place pretty easily: Mouriya/МОРЯ/モーリヤ.

Sure, there’s a lot of fuss over Kobe beef. Oh, of course, you wonder what all the fuss is about. Is it really worth all the hype? My friends, yes, it is. Holy crap. That was an amazing meal. We ordered 230g sirloin steaks. We lucked out and got seats right at the grill, so we saw the chefs prepare everything. They offered suggestions on how to enjoy the meat. The meat itself is so ridiculously tender. It almost feels like it just falls apart in your mouth. It’s just so damn good! It’s no wonder it’s all so expensive. In the end we spent about $130 each, but we didn’t mind. We called this our splurge meal for the week. Well worth it.

God, what a way to end the week long tour. Awesome, awesome, awesome. We walked back up to the station. We went to the ticket counter and spotted a train leaving in 12 minutes for Tokyo. We requested seats for that train. The ticket guy took our passed and stamped the insides, pretty much signalling that the power of the pass was now null and void. It was a sad moment. Once out tickets were issued, we started running through the station just to fetch our bags and scrambled for the train. All was well. We landed back in Tokyo a bit past 10:30 pm or so.

Thus ended out whirlwind tour. I’ve still got about three days in Tokyo that I’d like to talk about though, so…more to come, I guess!

The flight back

It’s around 3:30 in the afternoon right now. I woke up about half an hour ago. I was trying to wake up early, I mean, I remember opening my eyes at 8 am or so and thinking, “Hmmm…I should turn on the TV and watch Breakfast Television.” I never did get around to pawing for the remote. I had opened my blinds the night before to let the sunlight in so that it could be a trigger for my circadian rhythms, but I’m not sure if it helped.

I’m back safely–everything is alright. The flights were less than stellar. On the long one, I ended up sitting next to this big oaf of a Chinese guy. He was quite large and took up 1.25 of a seat width. I’m rather wide in the shoulders myself, so I had to contort to find a semi-comfortable position. Unfortunately, that position eluded me. The guy also had a habit of coughing loudly and picking his nose. Chaaaarming. Actually, the guy in front of me and the guy behind me were also coughing. I’m not expecting to become sick, but if I do, I know why. The arm rest on my seat was broken, and the light for my seat didn’t function. There was one point where the cabin lights were off and sunlight was slowly starting to build up so I used that to continue reading a book that I had to put down due to darkness. A crew member came by asking me to shut the window and once again I was in the dark. The Chinese guy kept on playing with his air vent so often I got hit with air even when I didn’t want to.

Fuuuuun times.

It doesn’t matter though. I’m back at home, able sleep in my own bed. I have a pillow. Life is good.

Nothing left but to say goodbye

I’m sitting here in a suddenly spacious apartment. It’s funny how the second mattress made everything seem so cramped. Now that I see it like this though, there’s definitely enough room here for one person. It’s still small, but at least the guy has some breathing room.

My bags are packed: backpack, gym bag, luggage. I looked outside the balcony door and it seems to be raining. I’m praying that the rain will ease up as I lug everything to the station. Otherwise, it’s going to be a miserable march over to Uguisudani.

Seriously, I’m in disbelief that this whirlwind vacation is at an end. In these 12 days here, I’ve crammed so much in that it makes the mind numb. I’ve been to Hakodate, Sapporo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Beppu, Hiroshima, and Kobe and experienced the people through new eyes. In Tokyo, I’ve been to a baseball game, a ninja restaurant, karaoke in Shibuya. God, how hectic! I’ve pushed myself day after day to get out there even though my body cried out for a day of rest. I’ve taken 4-5 hour walks hiking from one end of the city to the other. I’ve spent way too much on food–but as long as I keep in mind that this is a vacation I can at least maintain some of my sanity, you know? I guess you could say that I did my part to stimulate the Japanese economy, yes?

In a few hours I’ll be on a plane headed for home and I’ll once again get to enjoy the comforts that I miss so much. Oh, privacy! How beautiful you are! Don’t get me wrong, I completely appreciate the fact that my friend put up with me for so long. We’ve been at each other’s throats on occasion, but fundamentally we share a lot of the same values and that’s what’s kept us at peace. We helped push each other to do things that we wouldn’t be able to alone. It was a beneficial team-up every step of the way.

I feel that it really is time to go home.

The next 24 hours are going to be long and arduous, and I will be thankful for every minute.

———————

Blogging about the other days on the tour, as well as my post days in Tokyo will continue :) I’ve still got stories to share.

Day 6: Beppu

Why are you here?

Beppu has some of the best hot springs in Japan, but no one ever comes here!

That’s what my friend told me an old man told him as they were on the open air hot spring on the roof of the hotel in Beppu. That just about summarizes our experience in that town.

We left Osaka pretty early. We were on the train really promptly and made our connection. Within hours we were in on the big southern island of Kyushu, and in the resort town of Beppu. DWhen we walked out of the train station there was a table being set up where they were giving out bottles of water and bamboo water guns. I still haven’t tried mine out, but I’m sure it’ll work just nicely. One of the others didn’t want theirs so I took it. I plan on giving it to someone–just don’t know who.

Our first intent for the town was to go and check out the Hells. The Hells are super hot springs that are too hot for bathing. They have these differing physical properties between each one though. Anyway, we got a bus pass from the tourist office and started the windy trek there. Seems like the other two weren’t way too keen on seeing them and really only wanted to see the best of the bunch. Admission to each individual one was only ¥400. In the end though we got a pass for ¥2000 to see all 8. Now, let me say some of them are entirely beautiful. The Umi-Jigoku (I think it was Umi) has steam coming out of vents all over the place. The spring was this beautiful shade of opal blue. That one was worth admission. Some were sort of interesting like the Oniishibozu-Jigoku head one. The springs seemed to have this muddy mineral quality to them. As stuff bubbled up from underneath it looks like some shaved heads are bobbing up from underneath. Almost all of them are picturesque, but some are just kind of boring. Some of them are way too tourist-trap-like and that quality really irked me. To be honest, I question whether paying $20 was worth it. Regardless, I’m alright with having seen the 8. Would I recommend seeing them? Eh…well…some of them. Some of the souvenir shops were selling fans that said in Japanese: “Everyday is hell.” I kind of regret not getting one.

After the Hells we headed back to the hotel and claimed our rooms. We decided to request the Japanese style rooms with low tables, tatami mats, futons on the floor, and paper screens. The door to the room from the hotel hallway is normal–the paper screens separate the inside parts. I’ve never stayed in a Japanese style room before so this was new to me. It was awesome. Though, to be honest, in retrospect I’d probably have enjoyed a Western style room better. Even so, this experience was valuable, you know? I will say though–thank God the room had a Western style toilet and not a squatter. Whoo! The view from the room was interesting. He had a west-facing room with a view of the ocean, the Kyushu hillsides and parts of the city.

After relaxing for a while at the hotel we headed for the Takegawara Onsen. This public bath seemed really old, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s actually one of the oldest in the city. They’re well known for having this hot sand bath. Basically, after stripping down and putting on a yukata, you lie in a sand pit and some old ladies bury you in the hot sand. As they started to bury me, my immediate first thought was about just how heavy the sand was. Yes, it’s an obvious thought now, but back then you don’t expect to have that much weight on you. As well, damn they weren’t kidding about the sand being hot. The old ladies frequently came by and wiped my forehead down because I was dripping sweat like mad. Atsui desu ne? “It’s hot isn’t it?” All I could do was agree with a long “eeeeeee.” I ended up getting a lot of the attention because of my overactive glands. The sand bath is 10 minutes long, but by the last minute or two I started to think that 10 minutes would never end. I started to feel a bit of mild panic. My thoughts started going crazy. “It’s too hot! I’m going to pass out!” My toes wriggled free for some air. Soon enough though, the ten minutes was up and we were asked to get up. God, that was fun. I washed the sand off and got dressed. We hung out in the main area for a while just cooling off and getting fluids back into our body. It was nice and relaxing.

We had dinner at an izakaya in a covered shopping arcade. The menu was completely in Japanese and heavy with kanji so we relied on my friend to order. There were some surprises. Onion rice? It was just sliced fried onion–no rice. I would gather that tomato rice is actually sliced tomato. He also ordered fried fugu. We were expecting some fried slice or something. When they came in though it seemed like they fried whole fugu. You could still see the face and everything. They obviously removed the poisonous part, but still, how creepy! Being an ocean town, the sashimi was nice and fresh. It was all fun.

Actually, next to our table was a bunch of Japanese university students and what seemed to be their coach. They were celebrating. My friend was watching them egg on this one guy in their group to chug a beer. They noticed him watching, at which point he encouraged the dude to drink up. When they found out that he could speak Japanese they started trying out their non-existent English skills on him. Hilarity ensued.

That was basically my Beppu experience. It was a pretty light day, all things considered. I can say I’ve been to hell!

Day 5: Osaka

The day in Osaka was certainly an interesting one. For the first half, I was starting to think that it would be a disappointing stop, but things turned around rather quickly. So it’s been explained to me that Osaka is totally not a tourist’s city in the way that Kyoto and Tokyo are. No, it’s totally a place that’s all business. That’s why I got a little bit of a cold feeling from the city in my first few hours there. However, as the night went on and I got to see the side of the place that locals probably know intimately, and I found out why Osaka is a rockin’ place.

From Nagoya onward, we started travelling with two others. One is a friend of my friend, and the other guy is the friend of the friend of the friend. Ugh. There are three degrees of separation between us. That was…interesting.

Anyway, we left Kyoto for Osaka at about noon. After dropping off our bags in a coin locker, we headed for our first stop: the Umeda Sky Building. We wanted to check out the rooftop observatory. As expected, it gave great views of the city below. Osaka was fully spread out for us to enjoy. It was fantastic. For me, I was a little bit more excited about the place in that it was actually a stop in a leg of The Amazing Race 12. Whoo! Again, the TV world, and my experience has a little overlap in the Venn diagram of existence!

Umeda Sky Building

After eating, the four of us wanted to split off. The other two wanted to go check out an underwater tunnel and an aquarium. My friend and I on the other hand planned to head to the stadium. See, our original plans were to go see a baseball game of the Osaka Hanshin Tigers. The fans are reputed to be insane for this team, so we wanted to observe. The two of us were going to buy tickets early enough ahead of time but the other two indicated that they wanted to join in. They were supposed to get back to us early enough, but didn’t get to. When they finally did, all of the tickets were sold out. So, because of that we decided to go see if we can snag tickets from a scalper around the stadium. That’s why we decided to head there early.

Apparently, Japanese scalpers are a little different from what I’m used to seeing. Here in Japan, they’re supposed to be a little bit more discreet. You can see them holding up signs indirectly asking “Do you have tickets?” Uh huh. We figured it’d be easy enough to spot one. Unfortunately, we were proven wrong. We walked around the stadium several times and didn’t spot a single shady person. Actually, I’m sure we were the ones that looked shady. Every time we saw money changing hands we slowed down to see if anything was going on. After 2 hours of hunting, we gave up. If there were scalpers at the game, they were doing a poor job of trying to make money. During that time though, I was really fascinated with the fans in and around the stadium. So many people were decked out in the team colours of yellow and black. Everyone seemed so hardcore! I was really disappointed that we couldn’t get in because I wanted to see the fans all energized.

Well, after that disappointment, we picked up our stuff from the station and headed over to the hotel. I would have been content to just end the day at that point. Osaka didn’t grab my attention at all, and I was disappointed. I told this to my friend, and he said that I was crazy. He said that Osaka reminds him so much of New York. I didn’t see it. Well, he wasn’t ready to give up on me enjoying the place, so we decided to go eat someplace nice. After he did some research, he decided that we should go to this restaurant in Osaka that’s well known for its fugu.

Eh? Fugu? Yes. That’s the poison blow fish. Holy crap.

He wasn’t sure where it was exactly, but we decided to walk there anyway. After a short walk we made it to Shinsaibashi which is this long-ass covered shopping arcade. It was full of life and young people. We chose one direction and started walking down. I wasn’t fully paying attention to the signs, but somewhere along the way, I saw “サエラ” or “Saera” painted on a door. It suddenly clicked. Holy shit! That was the site of the flower-smelling road block for TAR12. Hah! Wow…two sites! Too bad the flower shop wasn’t open. Still, I found it interesting.

Saera Flower Shop

After an hour of wandering we still didn’t find the place. We dropped by a convenience store and checked out a map. As it turns out we were heading in the total opposite direction of where we were supposed to go. In time, another hour passed and I was started to get pissed. I mean, how long were we going to chase after a place that might not even exist? We did make it to the area where the place is located, but we were still wandering. Then, out of the blue my friend walks into store. It didn’t click right away, but as it turns out we finally made it. We decided to eat at a Japanese style table, low to the ground and on tatami mats. We ended up ordering a plate of fugu sashimi, fugu in a fried mayonnaise crab cake style preparation, and an order of Japanese beef shabu shabu. Whoo.

The sashimi they brought out was paper thin. It reminded me of wet rice paper–it was transparent. Sure, we were a little bit apprehensive about eating it. I mean, all I knew about fugu I learnt from that episode of The Simpsons where Homer eats fugu and thinks he’s going to die. We made a few jokes about dying by the time the morning rolls around. Afterwards, we dug in. Now, it certainly tasted good. It’s not really that much different from other sashimi, you know? I mean, here I was with the idea of the fish being all menacing and what not, and in the end it’s pretty much like everything else. To be honest, it was mildly a letdown. No, it wasn’t bad, but it’s like I was expecting something a little bit more dangerous. Does that make sense? The old woman that brought out the beef for shabu shabu was really doting on us. She wanted to make sure that we were doing it correctly and that us foreigners didn’t have a bad experience. It was mildly bordering on obsessiveness, but at the same time I really appreciated it. As we left, I made sure to get my friend to tell her that it was all delicious. When she heard it she seemed genuinely happy. In turn, that made me happy. Man, that was an experience!

Fugu sashimi Shabu shabu meat Eating fugu Table after dinner In front of the big blow fish

Of course, it’s now days later and I’m still alive. Jason 1, Fugu 0.

After eating, we wandered around the Dōtonbori area, then back to Shinsaibashi. It was still full of energy and people buzzing around. I feel like I’d finally pierced Osaka’s shell, and started to appreciate the energy of the city as a whole. Seriously, I was starting to feel like I was seeing a great part of the city that wouldn’t hand itself over so easily. How can I explain this? It’s like, in some places, the things worth seeing are really apparent. In Osaka’s case, it’s so occupied with itself that it can’t just hand its good side over: you have to be willing to go at its pace and do the city on its terms. This is a place on the path that I now appreciate.

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