Category Archive: Japan trip 2008

Traffic signal: Trouble

Today, as we were travelling around before and after dinner we experienced a lot of delays all along several of the train lines. The trains had layovers of several minutes at each stop and each time we waited the trains became more and more packed. When we looked up at the screens on the train, it gave a list of delays. There were four delays on four different lines. Each one listed “信号トラブル Accident.” That seems innocuous enough. However, “accident” is sort of a euphemism. It’s well known that “accident” generally means that someone jumped in front of a train. So, people committed suicide in front of four trains slowing down the systems, delaying thousands of commuters.

It’s kind of odd when I think about it. I don’t think anyone really pays attention to the individual in the sense that anyone really feels sorry for them. More of the focus is on how that person was rather inconsiderate in delaying others from getting home. Is that a bad thing? I dunno, it’s just what’s done around here, I guess. It’s kind of sad to know that these events are sort of regular occurrences. With 8 million people here, I guess it can’t be helped. Just part of life in the big city.

Unease in Akihabara

I’m sure a good deal of you have heard of that stabbing that happened in Akihabara yesterday. My friend noticed the news scrolling on the marquee signs from inside the Shinkansen but wasn’t sure just exactly what was going on. It was only when we got back to the apartment that we found out the details.

Today, I decided to go for a stroll there to check out the electronics and various other geekware. I didn’t feel like I was in danger or anything. I mean, what are the chances of a second deranged lunatic repeating the same thing the day after, know what I mean?

TV signal trucks in Akihabara

As I walked around, I noticed that so many Japanese news agencies were in the area interviewing people and filing reports. One part of the street was just lined with signal trucks, sending feeds back to their home bases. All of that in itself was a little unnerving. I mean, I suppose you don’t get a feel for the scale of what happened just by reading it on a website. Being there, I could feel that there was a tiny bit of uneasiness in the air. Sure, people were going about doing their own business, but knowing what had happened…could anyone really feel truly safe?

My friend said that if it wasn’t for the weeklong trip he probably would have been in Akihabara like he usually is on Sundays. Wow man. Imagine just going about your business down Queen St. then having some guy just plough down the sidewalk with a pickup truck with the intent of injuring and killing as many people as possible. It’s kind of scary.

Well, just know that I’m doing alright. Life will go on.

The end of the rail pass

We’ve landed back in Tokyo after our week long adventure. God, I’m exhausted. We made almost all of our planned stops. There were some things that we decided not to do for various reasons and some things that we added in last minute which provided extra value. For example, we added Kobe to our list of destinations. I will elaborate later on what we did there, but hey–it’s pretty obvious. :p

All things considered, if we didn’t have the Japan Rail Pass and actually paid for each individual train ticket the cost would have gone way past $1000. Tonight, when we got our last Shinkansen tickets from Shin-Kobe to Tokyo station, the clerk stamped our pass to say that the period has ended. As soon as he did I let out a big sigh. I was so sad to see it go.

Well, I still have to write about Osaka, Beppu, Hiroshima and Kobe. And there’s the matter of how I’m going to spend my last three days in Tokyo. I really want to just take a break, but I feel like I need to fit more value in. Oh man! Need to push harder!

Day 4: Nagoya and Kyoto

Day 4: Nagoya and Kyoto

Our rest in Tokyo was pretty short lived. We left early and headed for Nagoya. Nagoya is where you find Toyota City–home of Toyota headquarters. We had signed up to take a tour of the plant. We got to Nagoya, and took a train out into the burbs. From the Toyota station we took a cab out to the Toyota exhibition hall. It’s a long way out there to Toyota City. The complex is mind-bogglingly huge. Seriously, it’s like every building in the area was related to the company somehow.

When we got into the exhibition hall we walked into a presentation that occurs prior to the beginning of every tour. We walked into this Japanese crowd oohing and aahing over this trumpet playing robot. I don’t know how it works, or really like, whether it’s actually blowing air into the darn thing or just pretending. Regardless, it looked pretty cool. The second part of the presentation involved some sort of proof of concept personal transportation device. There was this CG video played on an overhead screen that showed the vehicle on the highways. To me it just seems unrealistic. I mean, if a Mack truck and that device played a game of chicken, there would no doubt be a bunch of splatter on the road.

After the presentations, we were herded onto buses to take us over to one of the manufacturing plants. It took us 15 minutes to get there from the exhibition hall. As we were taken deep into the bowels of the company, the scenery fully reminded me of some sort of scene from a Bond movie where a fight scene takes place in a warehouse of sorts. Crazy. Out of the four main areas, we were shown welding and assembly. Now, welding sure is an interesting area. We were taken above the production lines. As the frames went along, they’d stop and then this army of robot arms would just go nuts welding things into place. It was mesmerizing. The movements they made were so precise. It seemed like the robots were quite alive and had minds of their own. I’m not usually one to dwell on such things, but that is a feat of engineering. Now, robots didn’t do all of the work. There are some manned stations too to manually weld some parts together. It was all pretty damn cool.

After welding we were sent over to assembly where we really got to see things taking shape. I mean, in welding, what we saw were just frames. They were merely shells. By the time they’re in assembly they’re really more recognizably vehicles. Does that make sense? For this area, instead of robots, most stations were manned. People were busy at their stations, doing the things they do best. On this one production line, where the Prius and Camry were being put together, we saw this one person go into each car and honk the horn just to make sure that it was working. It was fun to watch. I noticed that down the line, some cars had steering wheels on the left side while others had it on the right. It showed that the production line isn’t just for Japan, but a lot of those cars would eventually hit foreign shores. It was pretty damn cool.

So, that was Nagoya. For there we made a quick jump on over to Kyoto. Whoo, if there’s any place in the country that has a distinctly “Japanese” feel to it, this city is it. It’s a big mix of traditional and modern, all living together in some weird symbiotic existence. It’s a really interesting place to visit, and really it’s a pity that I didn’t have so much time to spend there. Anyway, my friend took me over to Kiyomizu-dera which is a temple complex. We got off the bus and started hiking up this steep road. The road was lined with food outlets and souvenir shops. If I had time I would have at least stopped frequently to see if there was anything that I wanted to take home. Alas, I was just busy rushing through. About halfway up the hill, it started to rain a little bit. I thought nothing of it and kept heading up. My friend had already seen the place twice, so he told me that he’d just be waiting along the souvenir street while I’d check the place out. I agreed. As I kept going up the hill, the rain started pouring harder and harder. Inside the temple complex, there really wasn’t much choice but to go out into the rain if I wanted to see all that needed to be seen there. I eventually got to the souvenir area and decided ot pick up a charm or two. The lady inside asked me flat out, daijōbu desu ka (are you alright)? I said I was alright, and kept on going deeper in. Yes I was soaked, but I was enjoying the rain. I mean, considering the situation I was in, this was all quite unreal. Did you know that Kiyomizu means “pure water”? Well, I sure got it that day. I hit a point though where I just got tired of being in the rain. So, instead of heading further in I just started making my way back. As I was returning, I passed by many couples and got some amused looks. Hey, look at that foreigner that’s soaked to the bone! Yeah, that was me! All I did was put on a smile and move on like nothing was wrong. I felt fine.

We took the bus over to the Gion district and walked back to the hotel from there. I got changed into something dry, after which we took the bus over to a restaurant in the northwest end. We ate at a place where my friend’s boss used to work (to learn Japanese, apparently). My friend made a call ato his boss, and the boss made a call to the restaurant asking them to treat us well. The place was really awesome. The restaurant was called Kushinhachi which really roughly translates to “8 skewers”. It specialized in skewered food. You sit at a bar around the pit area where the cooks are. Off the menu you can pick fried stuff, or grilled stuff and they’d set it all out in front of you. With most skewers costing ¥50 – ¥150, it was all cheap but filling. I loved the place! When people would walk in, the cooks would all pause and greet the people rather loudly. They’d do the same when people leave the restaurant. It was all quite charming.

Ah, Kyoto was a lot of fun. Again, I wish I had more time to take in more of the cultural bits. It’s OK though. The little memories that I carry with me are valuable enough.

Day 3: break in Tokyo

Not much to say about day 3. Most of it was spent getting back to Tokyo before starting our legs into the western part of the country. Couple of talking points though.

We originally had plans to go the actual beer production factory . I mean, after the ice cream, museum, and beer tasting, visiting a beer factory just seemed appropriate. Unfortunately, we found out that we had to make a tour reservation a week or two in advance, so that plan was thrown out.

Now, the day before while I was busy sampling my three beers, my friend asked the bar tender if he had any recommendations in terms of things to see around Sapporo. It was suggested that we take a stroll around the park at Hokkaido University. Well alright, so that was the plan. We walked over and started strolling the grounds. Sure, they were nice and all, but…it’s a university. We stopped by the university goods shop and my friend picked up a t-shirt saying Hokkaido University in kanji along the side. Apparently it’s so random that he figures he’ll get a lot of laugh mileage out of it. I guess I agree.

Other than that, there wasn’t much to see there, so we agreed to hunt down a ramen noodle place. Sapporo is supposedly known for their ramen noodle soup. I wasn’t aware of that. Back over at the beer tasting area, there happened to be a book containing recommendations made by the staff for ramen places around the city. We picked one out the day before and agreed to hunt it down today. Well, after 45 mins of searching in the blazing sun we just gave up. There was this one place by the train station that we spotted while we were wandering, so we decided to go there. We both ordered miso ramen and boy was it good. The place seemed to attract a lot of locals so we figured we’d done right by this place.

It was all well and good, but we were quite pressed for time. By the time we were done, we had 7 minutes to get into the station, pick up our bags from the coin locker, and make the train. Whoo…we were running like mad. We made it in with like a minute or two to spare, but we entered car 13 or so–our tickets were for car 3. So we lugged it all through the train corridors trying not to hit too many people all the way through.
Three and a half hours later we were back in Hakodate. Three hours later we were in Hachinohe. Three more hours later and we were back in Tokyo, feeling quite gross.

A close-by post office

Ha! I can actually ask where the nearest post office is, as well as use that post office’s ATM. Did you know that if you use the English text it’ll only allow you to withdraw ¥10000, but more if you use the Japanese text?

Take that, Japan!

Day 2: Sapporo

We left Hakodate for Sapporo early in the morning and arrived just before noon. I think I immediately grew to like Sapporo. First of all, compared to Tokyo, Sapporo is so wide open and spacious. It has a city feel, without the density. I would say that this city reminded me of home. See, compared to so many other Japanese cities, the buildings here are fairly new. It doesn’t really scream out “JAPAN” like other places, and yet…it is. I don’t know. It’s rather bizarre in my mind how I’m able to connect the ideas of “Japan” and “spacious urban places” but apparently you can with this place.

Well, first stop of ours was the city’s clock tower. The place has become a real symbol of the city, and it’s said that no trip to Sapporo would be complete without a visit to the clock tower. Although, it was also ranked by Japanese as one of the country’s most disappointing tourist attractions. See, therein lies the issue. It’s not really touristy at all. I mean, yes, it’s a tourist attraction, but the tower’s appeal lies more in its historical context, right? Anyway. In the end of it all, because we went there focused on the historical side of things we really didn’t find it that bad at all.

After a rather disappointing lunch we took a bus over to the beer park. As soon as we got off, we spotted an ice cream shop next to the stop. We ventured in and as expected we found beer flavoured ice cream. Not just that, but it was dark beer flavoured ice cream. Naturally we had to get some. Naturally. And yes, the ice cream tasted like beer. There was a bitter edge to it, but like, it wasn’t unpleasant (to me at least). I thoroughly enjoyed it.

After the beer sweets we started wandering around looking for the exhibits and tour. As we passed by the tourist information booth this middle aged guy came out and greeted us. He seemed to have a little bit of a grasp of English. He was doing rather well communicating with us but he switched syntax often. He asked about ourselves and where we were from. He also asked if we were students. My friend said yes and that he’s going to Columbia University for business. The man uttered an astonished “waaaaaaaa!” and patted him on the back. When it came to me, I tried to say Waterloo. In Japanese though, in never sounds right.

me: Waterloo Daigaku (University of Waterloo)
him: ?_?
me: mm… ウォータール 大学
him: Wataru Daigaku ?_?
me: ¬_¬

Haaarsh. I realize that it might not be as well known internationally as the Columbias and Harvards of the world, but still, it kind of hurts. Instead I followed it up by saying that I studied computer engineering. At that point I got the “waaaaaaaa!” and the pat on the back that my friend got. In fast Japan-glish the guy started saying that he was in the army before, but then tried programming and hated it. I laughed. He was also saying something about how astonishing it is that memory has shrunken down so small into these tiny chips. Yup yup yup. Man, that guy was great! He made our day.

He pointed us over to the beer exhibits where we took in the history of Sapporo Beer Museum. Fascinating stuff–and fascinating displays, really. I never made the association of Hokkaido and beer before, but now…Hokkaido is Sapporo beer. Yes, it is. We made it over to the beer tasting area which was nice. I took a look at the menu and decided on the sampler–3 different kinds of beer for only ¥400. Three half-pints for about $4? Score. They gave me a tray with two light beers and a dark one. At 2 in the afternoon, that might have been a lot of beer. I didn’t get drunk of my ass because we still had some sights to see. Ha. Regardless, it was all quite nice. By far, this was an unexpectedly great stop.

We took a subway out west and then a bus to get to Mt. Moiwa. After the disappointment in Hakodate, we kind of wanted to see a good view at least somewhere. This tourist spot is kind of out of the way and requires a bit more effort to get to, but regardless it really does offer a stunning view. We took a cable car to get up there to the summit. From the observation platform, you could see the trees and buildings all kind of existing harmoniously. Sapporo stretched out a really long way. Off in the distance you could make out Mt. Hakodate–still shrouded in fog. It was all quite exciting to take in. The platform was really windy, and it got cold really fast. There was a school trip that went up to the platform. All of the girls were squealing because the wind was blowing up their school uniform skirts. It was kind of amusing seeing them try to hold them down. SQUEEEEEE. We arrived there late afternoon and wanted to wait for at least dusk to get a view of the night, however, knowing that it took so long to get there (and that it’d take a long time to get back) we just left shortly after sunset. Only about half the city was lit up at that time. Regardless, that was a great stop as well.

Well, we got back to the factory area at around 8:30 or so. We were starving and fully intended on going to that Genghis Khan place we saw on the way to the museum. That restaurant is kind of like a Korean BBQ type place, except that they specialize in lamb meat. Also, the location we spotted was out in open air, so that meant that we wouldn’t get too smoked up. We fully intended to do the all you can eat/drink thing. However, because we got there a bit late, they warned us that we’d only get an hour. We were just too hungry at that point, so we agreed and proceeded to hurry and get stuffed. I had like..2 mugs of beer and a mug of oolong tea. The lamb was so good! All greasy and fattening but holy shit that was just awesome. By the end we didn’t think we got our money’s worth, but it didn’t matter because we were in such a good mood after such a nice day.

That’s Sapporo. Day 3 was the hike back to Tokyo for a quick break. Yesterday I just finished a bit of Kyoto. Today will be Osaka.

More to come!

Hokkaido is Sapporo Beer

At least, that’s what the sign says in front of the beer museum…
and beer park…

They weren’t kidding.

I really want to write about Sapporo right now, but damn, I’m tired. I just spent 10 hours on the trains to get back into Tokyo, lugging a heavy gym bag from locale to locale. Tomorrow, we’re heading to Nagoya to see the Toyota plant and then going to historic Kyoto.

If I get the chance, I’ll write about Sapporo tonight, but all the tapping might drive my roommate crazy. Early start!

Older posts «

» Newer posts

Switch to our mobile site